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- <text id=91TT2247>
- <title>
- Oct. 07, 1991: Boozeless Bonanza
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1991
- Oct. 07, 1991 Defusing the Nuclear Threat
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- FOOD, Page 65
- Boozeless Bonanza
- </hdr><body>
- <p>Nonalcoholic beer is better and more popular than ever
- </p>
- <p> Time was when beer without alcohol just wasn't real beer, and
- big breweries weren't interested in selling it. How long ago
- that now seems. The turning point came when two of America's top
- brewers, Miller and Anheuser-Busch, went looking for an area of
- growth in the shrinking beer market and found big-time potential
- in the nonalcoholic segment. Now it appears as if half the shelf
- space in the supermarket beverage section is filled with a score
- or more of nonalcoholic brand names, many of them a substantial
- taste improvement over the pioneers of yore. Miller has sold 5.5
- million cases of its Sharp's brand, after just a year on the
- market, vs. 3.3 million cases of A-B's new brand, O'Doul's.
- </p>
- <p> The main reason for the plethora of boozeless brew is a
- health-conscious society trying to consume less alcohol and lose
- more weight. But drinkers still want taste. New technology has
- improved nonalcoholic beer (made by the same process as beer,
- with most of the alcohol removed either through a vacuum process
- at the end or by limiting the rate of fermentation), making it
- more palatable to the discerning drinker. The appeal of Sharp's
- is its yeasty, rich flavor, while Heileman's Kingsbury, once the
- market leader, is somewhat metallic but still very drinkable.
- Kaliber, an import from Guinness, has a fine, toasty aroma, and
- O'Doul's has the straightforward and pleasant taste of a regular
- domestic beer.
- </p>
- <p> Which to choose? Steve Byers, beer critic for the
- Milwaukee Journal, says a consumer should see if a brew has the
- characteristics he or she likes in regular beer. Byers favors
- a full-bodied taste with a malty flavor. "You want something
- that you react to," he says. Amid the avalanche of boozeless
- brands, almost any reaction is now available.
- </p>
-
- </body></article>
- </text>
-
-